Skylight Installation Mckeesport Pa

Contact a professional skylight installer or repairer today. Your roof is too important to be trusted to just anyone. Getting bids ensures that you will pay the right combination of price and quality for the work being done. Your chosen contractor will tailor their solution to your exact roofing configuration.

There are many factors that influence skylight requirements, including architectural design, location, and client preferences. Clients can explore different solutions by seeking multiple quotes, ensuring that the chosen provider is aligned with their specific requirements. Multiple quotes enable clients to make confident decisions about their skylight projects based on information and flexibility.

7 Things to Consider Before Beginning a Skylight Installation

Impress your installer and achieve radiant outcomes by keeping these skylight job preparing tips top of mind.

Required a little extra sunlight in your life? Think about installing a skylight or solar tube above an interior space that’s short on natural light. These roof windows allow up to 5 times more light than a sidewall window and plenty of heat. The cost and complexity of setting up one, however, make it well worth your time to educate yourself on the structural conditions you need to satisfy and the style choices you require to make to get a skylight that works for you. Consider these seven task factors to consider before giving your residential or commercial contractor the green light on a skylight installation.

1. Skylights aren’t right for all roofing systems.

Due to the fact that skylights are installed at the roofline below the roof shingles and sheathing, the building of the roof must be able to support the skylight. First, consider the framing, which normally is one of two types:

Stick-framed roofs, constructed with private rafters spaced as far as 4 feet apart, tend to be much better fit for skylights due to the fact that they leave enough room to cut and fit a skylight between the rafters.

Truss-framed roofing systems, named for the premade triangular systems they’re made from, are less perfect. Trusses aren’t designed to be cut after installation; doing so can compromise the structural integrity of the roof.

Even if your installer wants to add a skylight to a truss-framed roof, you may be forced to choose smaller skylights no greater than 2 feet broad to fit the restricted area offered in between the beams that make up each truss. This might not be large enough for your requirements, given that the advised size for a skylight is in between five and 10 percent of the square video footage of the room it’s lighting.

A stick-framed roof is not an automated green-light to the project, though; the slope of the roof might still present a difficulty. Gable, hip, and shed roof shapes are ideal since all have a slope that will divert rainwater and debris downward off the skylight. Otherwise, left standing for a bit of time, gathered rainwater could stain the glazing. Flat roofings are poor choices for skylights just for this factor.

2. Glass isn’t the only choice for glazing.

Skylights consist of a wood, vinyl, or metal frame that holds a light-transmitting piece called glazing. You’ll have your choice of either plastic or glass skylight glazing.

Glass glazing– which is twice as heavy and anywhere from 25 percent to five times more expensive than plastic– is your best option. It’s the clearer and more scratch- and impact-resistant choice, plus it withstands discoloration, shuts out more UV rays, and comes in custom-made sizes and shapes. Unlike plastic, glass glazing likewise affords 2 insulating options:

a low-emissivity (low-E) covering, which is an invisible layer of metal oxide on the inner glass pane

an intervening layer of argon gas between the two panes to assist maintain indoor heat in winter season, stave off exterior heat in the summer, and block out nearly all UV rays

If you choose glass glazing, make certain to select tempered or laminated glass to prevent it from getting into sharp pieces on impact. The most resilient glazing is double-paned– including either two panes of tempered or laminated glass or an outer pane of tempered glass over an inner pane of laminated glass.

Plastic glazing, offered in a stronger polycarbonate or weaker acrylic range, is cheaper, half as light, and less likely to break than glass. But it also scratches and becomes stained more quickly, blocks little to no UV light, and is normally just offered in standard sizes and shapes such as flat, pyramidal, arched, or domed.

3. Protective glazing movies or coverings manage light and temperature levels and add privacy.

The addition of an overhead window can imply lots of light and less personal privacy. That said, you can dial down the brightness, glare, and heat in a room– even restore privacy– by tinting the glazing with colored window film or setting up a shade below the inner pane of a skylight’s glazing. Tinting windows produces a more softly-lit, ambient indoor setting and can in addition help a skylight block out UV light if it has plastic glazing or glass that isn’t low-E. But it considerably reduces the portion of noticeable light your skylight transfers, and because window film on a skylight is impractical to eliminate because of its height, if removable at all, you’ll be dedicating to a lower level of natural lighting in the room year-round.

Skylight shades, which come in motorized remote-controlled varieties or manually ran varieties that can be drawn open or closed with a chord, assist your skylight send the maximum quantity of visible light when open or dim and cool the room when partly or completely closed.

4. Some skylights allow air and light.

Skylights can be found in repaired varieties that always stay closed and vented varieties you can open or close at your discretion. Due to the fact that fixed skylights transfer only light and are created to keep in heat and keep out moisture, they’re generally more energy-efficient and less prone to leakages. However they don’t promote air flow, that makes them a better alternative for spaces that are currently well-ventilated. Vented skylights, which include by hand operated varieties you can open or close with a hand crank or motorized choices you can manage with a remote, increase the threat of leaks and heat loss or build-up. However they let in both fresh air and natural light, that makes them especially helpful in stuffy spaces like attics.

5. Area matters.

When checking a skylight area, decide on the particular space you wish to light. It should preferably be one straight listed below the roof– for instance, a dark finished attic or a guest bedroom. Your installer will then hone in on a section of the roof above that space that fulfills the minimum slope requirements in the maker’s specifications for your skylight. ( Normally, you want to install a skylight at a slope of five to 15 degrees higher than your latitude.).

The direction of the skylight is similarly important. North-facing skylights are perfect, as they supply continuous year-round lighting. Avoid placing skylights where your view would be obstructed by the walls of a taller nearby structure or other obstructions. Large trees in the vicinity of a skylight might just be preferable for property owners in hot environments who require more shade.

6. Leave skylight installation to the pros.

The availability of skylights with flashing included (metal strips used to weatherproof the skylight) make it possible for DIYers with carpentry and roof experience to deal with a skylight installation for a lower cost of between $150 to $500. But for the typical DIYer, the complexity of installation and the dangers of falling or triggering a roof leak make expert installation well worth the higher cost of $650 to $3,500. Installing a skylight includes getting rid of roof shingles, cutting a hole into the roof, customizing the framing to fit the skylight, installing the flashing and skylight, and repairing parts of the roof and ceiling above and listed below the skylight.

A skylight installation in an existing roof needs re-shingling particular areas of your roof, so hold back on starting this project up until you require your roof changed. Furthermore, wait on a clear day to begin this task– you do not want rain slipping you up on the roof or seeping through the roof opening and into your home.

7. Keep your skylight clean and clear with routine maintenance.

Utilize these ideas to keep your skylight gleaming year-round:.

Check ceilings and floors in spaces with skylights biweekly for leaks. Moist areas on the ceiling or carpet– particularly after heavy rain- or snowfall– can indicate a leakage in the skylight that can pave the way to mold if not repaired.

Dust skylights monthly using a telescoping dust mop.

Deep-clean skylights every year. Utilize a sponge mop saturated in soapy water to gently scrub down the inner pane of the skylight, and use a telescoping power washer to get rid of dirt and grime on the external pane.

Have skylights inspected by a professional each year for hairline cracks and other flaws that can result in more substantial structural damage down the line. If you’re uneasy cleansing skylights yourself, have your skylights professionally cleaned up at the same time you have them checked.

If replacing your roof and installing a brand-new skylight at the same time, ask your roofing professional to have an ice and water shield installed with the roof underlayment to prepare for ice dams. Having a skylight makes your roof more susceptible to forming ice dams( melted snow that has refrozen) around the outer edges of the skylight, which can prevent rainwater runoff or melt and produce a leak if they permeate through the roof shingles.

Clear fallen snow from the roof with a shovel or rake before it adheres prevent the development of ice dams. If the snow melts and freezes into ice, you’ll need to utilize a mallet to break it into small chunks that will fall off the roof themselves. Or place calcium chloride-filled socks on the ice to melt it. You can also call a roofing professional to steam away the ice dams on your roof.

Pros.

Natural Light.

Homes are becoming greener. Saving energy is a major cornerstone of residential LEED accreditation. LEED houses use up to 30% less energy than non-LEED houses. Skylights bring totally free, clean, natural light into houses, lowering the quantity of artificial light required in a home.

Heat Gain When Required.

Skylights unquestionably bring heat into a home. When that heat is welcomed– during the day in winter, for example– skylights provide more free heat to the house than windows do.

Style Accent.

Skylights can impact a house’s interior decoration like no other element, adding an unexpected punch in stairs or office or by providing a focal point in living spaces and kitchen areas.

Preferred by Numerous Homebuyers.

Skylights have many fans, so they can be a strong selling point for the best purchasers.

Consistent Light vs. Windows’ Light.

Skylights track the sun throughout the day, and orientation matters little bit. By comparison, windows have greatly contrasting light patterns, specifically when oriented east or west.

Cons.

Heat When Not Needed.

In cold seasons, heat that’s gained during the day can build up and get to be too hot later in the day. In warmer seasons, no heat gain is wanted from skylights.

Heat Loss in Cold Seasons.

In winter, heat got throughout the day is lost in the evening through the skylight. One research study reveals that in the evening, a skylight loses 32.4 BTU per hour, per square foot, compared to windows’ heat loss of 20.2 BTU per hour, per square foot. That indicates that skylights lose near to 40% more heat than windows.

Too Much Light.

Daylight is usually welcome but less so in a bed room when you’re trying to sleep, making skylights a bad choice for bedrooms and other locations where you need to manage light.

Prospective for Leaking.

Professional skylight installation with a trustworthy company goes a long way towards ensuring that your skylight will remain dry and leak-free. But as openings in the roof, skylights will always have the capacity for dripping.

Challenging to Tidy.

With their flat or angled positions, skylights gather dirt and debris at a greater rate than windows. If you infrequently tidy your windows, you’ll need to clean up the skylight more frequently. Plus, mounting the roof is the only method to clean the outside of a skylight.

Skylight Cost Aspects.

The last cost per skylight depends on the size of the window, any finishes to assist block out UV rays or enhance energy performance, and other personalizations to fit the design and needs of your house.

Most standard-sized skylights cost $150 to $3,500. The bigger the skylight, the higher the cost. If your roof opening does not fit among the listed below sizes, expect to pay at least 25% more for the system than the next-closest standard option on this list.

Size (Width by Height) Rate.

16-by-16 inches$ 150– $600.

16-by-24 inches$ 200– $700.

16-by-32 inches$ 300– $1,000.

24-by-32 inches$ 300– $1,200.

24-by-48 inches$ 500– $2,000.

24-by-72 inches$ 900– $2,700.

48-by-48 inches$ 1,100– $3,500

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